Grandpa, Big Bro, and I recently completed a pretty special adventure: a three-day backpacking trip covering 35 km with nearly 1,600 m of total elevation gain, camping at the beautiful Garibaldi Lake and tackling the spectacular Panorama Ridge.
As one of the premier backpacking destinations in our region, Garibaldi Lake has been high on my to-do list for years. I had previously done several day hikes to the lake about 8–10 years ago, but hadn’t been back since. This time, we were going to do it properly—with heavy backpacks, two nights of camping, and three generations of adventurers!
Preparing for Our Three-Generation Adventure
To prepare for the trip, I had to upgrade some of my backpacking gear. I picked up a two-person backpacking tent, a 75 L backpack, and a lightweight down sleeping bag. We also got a 28 L backpack for Big Bro so he could carry his own water and sleeping bag.
More importantly, all three members of our expedition had been doing some serious physical preparation this year.
Grandpa had been hiking and running regular, logging around 10 km of running, walking, or hiking almost every day of the year. Big Bro had achieved an incredible personal record on the Grouse Grind, so we knew he was more than capable of tackling this adventure. As for myself, all the running, cycling, and triathlon training this year had left me in pretty good shape too.
We booked our trip for September and were blessed by the weather gods with gorgeous sunshine and mild temperatures. We couldn’t have asked for a better weather window for a late-season backpacking trip.
Day 1: The Climb to Garibaldi Lake
On the morning of our departure, Grandpa suddenly had a moment of panic.
Since we had to drop off Middle Bro at school before leaving the city, we wouldn’t be able to start hiking until around noon. By Grandpa’s calculations, we would need approximately six hours to complete the 9 km hike with 900 m of elevation gain.
“We might not reach camp before dark!” he worried. “Maybe we should postpone and leave earlier tomorrow.”
“I don’t think it’ll take that long. All the guides and books say about 3.5 to 4 hours,” I tried to reassure him. “And I really don’t want to cut the trip short and miss Panorama Ridge.”
“But we have a kid and 20 kg of gear each! Those hiking times are for day trippers.”
“The kid could probably finish the hike in three hours. You’ve done backpacking trips of similar difficulty with this kind of load, and I’m in good shape from all the training this year. We can do it. Besides, we have good headlamps, and the trail is well maintained.”
With Grandpa’s nerves sufficiently settled, we headed out as planned.
We started hiking at exactly noon, with high spirits and heavy backpacks.
The weight of my pack brought back vivid memories of carrying the boys in backpack carriers during our family hikes a few years ago. When was the last time I carried Big Bro in a carrier, with him falling asleep sideways as we walked? I reminisced about that younger version of him who would get tired halfway through a hike and need to be picked up.
I turned around and saw him trucking along confidently between Grandpa and me, carrying his own backpack.
I love this version of him too.
We quickly settled into a comfortable pace of around 3 km/h, which kept our heart rates nicely in a sustainable Zone 2. We stopped for snacks and water about every 30 minutes.
Grandpa was pleasantly surprised. Not only were we maintaining a steady pace, but we weren’t slowing down as the climb continued. We were on track for roughly three hours of actual hiking time!
Along the way, we were passed by a park ranger riding an electric mountain bike. He was super friendly, gave us some BC Parks stickers, and checked our camping reservation.
I was actually quite reassured to see reservations being checked. Otherwise, the campground system seemed to rely largely on the honour system.
Lunch at the Barrier Viewpoint
We stopped for lunch at the Barrier Viewpoint, which offered expansive views across the valley.
The geology here is fascinating. About 10,000 years ago, volcanic lava flows formed a natural dam that created Garibaldi Lake. This massive volcanic formation, known as the Barrier, holds back an enormous volume of water. Because of concerns about its stability, the area immediately downstream has been designated unsafe for permanent habitation.
Having lunch while looking across this massive geological formation, knowing a little about the forces that created it, was pretty humbling.
After a relaxing lunch, we pushed onward, passing several smaller lakes before eventually reaching the shore of Garibaldi Lake.
The final few hundred metres involved rock-hopping along the lakeshore. A nearby sign warned that when lake levels are high, hikers need to take an alternative route along the steep slope above the water. Looking up at that trail, it seemed impossibly challenging with our heavy backpacks. Thankfully, the lake level was low enough for us to take the easier route.
After a few final turns, we were rewarded with the famous view of Garibaldi Lake, its turquoise water framed by towering mountains and the massive Sphinx Glacier in the distance.
What a sight!
Finding Our Campsite
Since the tent pads are available on a first-come, first-served basis, we didn’t linger at the lake. Our next mission was to find two adjacent campsites.
Thankfully, Grandpa managed to locate what appeared to be the only two remaining adjacent sites, about halfway up the campground. We quickly set up our tents and established our base for the next two nights.
The Garibaldi Lake campground is spread across several sections, each served by pit toilets, covered picnic shelters, and metal bear hangs for storing food and other attractants.
Fresh, deliciously cold water is readily available from the lake, although it needs to be treated before drinking.
After settling in, we headed down to a small clearing by the lakeshore to prepare dinner.
On the menu was congee with beef and salmon, all of which we had dehydrated at home. A warm, hearty meal after a long day of hiking was absolutely satisfying.
That night, our tent was surprisingly warm and comfortable. The wooden tent platform was perfectly level and provided a little extra insulation from the cold ground. Combined with our sleeping pads and down sleeping bags, we were positively toasty. I didn’t even need to zip up my sleeping bag!
For communication, the iPhone’s satellite texting worked amazingly well beside the lake, where we had a wide-open view of the sky. I was able to check in with Tina and let her know that we had arrived safely and that everything was going according to plan.
Day 2: Conquering Panorama Ridge
The next morning, we enjoyed our coffee and breakfast at the picnic shelter before setting out for the main event of our trip: Panorama Ridge.
From Garibaldi Lake, it’s approximately a 14 km round trip with 700 m of elevation gain. Much of that elevation gain is concentrated in the final kilometre, where the trail climbs steeply over exposed rocks to reach the ridge.
We first hiked through beautiful forests, meadows, and alpine valleys. The scenery was already far more interesting than the previous day’s climb, which had involved endless switchbacks under dense tree cover.
Without our heavy camping gear, we were considerably lighter on our feet. On the other hand, our legs were still recovering from the previous day’s big climb, and a night of less-than-perfect sleep in the wilderness wasn’t exactly the most restorative.
I figured those two factors roughly cancelled each other out.
Nevertheless, motivated by the gorgeous weather and increasingly spectacular views, we pressed on at a good pace.
Epic Music for an Epic View
During our final snack break before the last kilometre of rocky ascent, we encountered a very friendly hiker coming down the mountain with a speaker playing the theme from Jurassic Park.
“Epic music for the epic view!” I called out.
We struck up a conversation, and he was amazed to learn that three generations of our family were hiking Panorama Ridge together.
“He doesn’t know it yet, but he’s very lucky!” he said, pointing to Big Bro.
That comment really stuck with me.
To have a Grandpa with the fitness to tackle such a demanding hike, a dad with the time and enthusiasm to organize the trip, and a kid with the grit and determination to complete it—we were indeed incredibly fortunate.
I hope that one day, when Big Bro is older, he’ll look back on these adventures and appreciate how special they were.
The Grand Reveal
We tackled the final rocky kilometre without incident, even taking a short detour to touch some lingering patches of melting snow.
Then, finally, we rounded the edge of the ridge and…
The view!
The brilliant turquoise water of Garibaldi Lake had been completely hidden from us throughout the entire hike, only to reveal itself at the very last moment.
And what a reveal it was!
The enormous lake stretched out far below us, surrounded by dramatic mountain peaks, glaciers, and rugged alpine terrain. It was one of those rare views that genuinely took my breath away.
No photograph could fully capture the scale of the landscape.
The main viewpoint was fairly crowded with hikers who were understandably in no hurry to leave. Who could blame them? After working so hard to reach the summit, everyone wanted to linger and soak in the scenery.
We found a quieter spot slightly lower down and away from the crowds, with an equally grand 180-degree panorama.
It was the perfect place to rest, have some snacks, take photos, and simply enjoy the moment.
The Hike Back to Camp
After a good rest, we began our descent.
Out of curiosity, I pulled out my phone and turned off airplane mode. To my surprise, we had excellent cellular reception right on Panorama Ridge!
I was even able to video chat with Tina and give her a live tour of the incredible scenery. The reception eventually disappeared as we descended back into the forested valley.
Along the trail, we connected with several other groups of hikers and campers. Everyone was friendly, encouraging, and eager to share stories about their adventures.
There’s something about being out in the mountains that makes it easier to strike up conversations with complete strangers. Perhaps it’s the shared physical challenge, the spectacular surroundings, or simply the euphoria of being outdoors. Whatever the reason, the camaraderie added another enjoyable dimension to the experience.
An Icy Dip and a Night Under the Stars
After returning to camp, I decided to celebrate with a dip in the icy waters of Garibaldi Lake.
And icy it was!
The lakebed was also covered with sharp volcanic rocks, which were quite painful on bare feet.
Note to self: bring water shoes next time.
After another satisfying dinner by the lakeshore, we retired to our tents for the night.
But before falling asleep, Big Bro and I decided to venture out one more time to look at the stars.
With virtually no light pollution, a completely cloudless sky, and a perfectly still lake, the conditions were extraordinary.
We could clearly see the Big Dipper, satellites passing overhead, and the beautiful band of the Milky Way stretching across the sky.
And then, as if the night needed one more special touch, we spotted a shooting star!
Standing there beside the dark, motionless lake, looking up at the enormous night sky with Big Bro, was one of my favourite moments of the entire trip.
What a way to cap off a beautiful day.
Day 3: The Long Descent and an Unexpected Encounter
On the third morning, we had breakfast at the picnic shelter, packed up our gear, and broke camp.
Our final challenge was the 9 km hike back down to the parking lot, once again carrying our fully loaded backpacks.
While the downhill hike was much less demanding on our cardiovascular systems, it was certainly harder on the legs. After two days of substantial hiking, our quadriceps and knees were beginning to feel the accumulated effort.
But there was one final surprise waiting for us on the trail.
As we descended, we came across a guy hiking uphill with…
A full-sized whitewater kayak strapped to his back!
Yes, an actual kayak.
We stopped to chat and learned that his name was Thomas Woelfing. His plan was to hike up to Garibaldi Lake, paddle across it, then continue hiking and mountaineering through the glacier and backcountry before dropping into the Class IV+ rapids of the Upper Pitt River for a whitewater kayaking descent.
Solo.
We had thought our three-day backpacking expedition was quite the adventure, but this was on an entirely different level!
We wished Thomas good luck and watched in awe as he continued hauling his kayak up the mountain.
Suddenly, our 20 kg backpacks didn’t seem quite so unreasonable.
Three Generations, One Unforgettable Adventure
After 2 hours and 41 minutes of descending, we arrived back at the trailhead before noon, completing approximately 48 hours of adventure in the Garibaldi backcountry.
Over three days, we had hiked roughly 35 km with nearly 1,600 m of total elevation gain, camped beside one of the most beautiful lakes in British Columbia, climbed to the spectacular Panorama Ridge, and shared countless memorable moments along the way.
But the most rewarding part wasn’t the distance, the elevation, or even the incredible scenery.
It was the opportunity for three generations of our family to share the same adventure, each contributing our own strengths and encouraging one another along the way.
A few years ago, Big Bro was the little boy falling asleep in the hiking carrier on my back. Now, he was carrying his own gear and keeping pace with Grandpa and me on a demanding mountain trek.
I hope we have many more adventures like this together, with Tina and the rest of the gang too.
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